Discovering Cologne: A 2-Day Travel Cologne Guide to History, Culture, and Modernity

Cologne, Germany, often evokes mixed reactions, from being labeled as ‘boring’ to ‘an absolute vibe’. However, after spending time wandering its captivating streets last summer, I can confidently say I fell in love with this German gem. This two-day Travel Cologne guide is designed to help you experience the best of Cologne and perhaps, fall in love with it too.

Alter Markt Old Fish Houses Cologne

Cologne offers a unique blend of historical grandeur and modern innovation. Despite 90% of the city being destroyed in World War II, Cologne has risen, showcasing a fascinating architectural dialogue between rebuilt historical landmarks and bold, brutalist structures from the 1950s and 60s. My personal connection to Cologne, with family roots tracing back to this city and nearby Krefeld (origin of my surname ‘Lux’), might add a touch of sentimentality to my perspective. Yet, I assure you, Cologne is a destination worth exploring – even if viewed through slightly rose-tinted glasses. Just a heads-up: plan your visit any day but Monday, as many attractions are closed then!

Accommodation in Your Travel Cologne Experience

For a centrally located and stylish stay during your travel cologne adventure, I recommend Ruby Ella Cologne. This modern, clean, and vibrant hotel places you right in the heart of the action. It’s reasonably priced considering its prime location, though be aware that rooms and bathrooms are on the smaller side. For a more detailed look, check out my full review of Ruby Ella Cologne.

Ruby Ella Cologne Hotel Room Interior

Day 1 of Your Travel Cologne Itinerary

9am – Breakfast at Balthasar

Start your travel cologne day with breakfast at Balthasar, renowned as one of Cologne’s top breakfast spots. From the moment you step in and see the enticing dishes, you’ll understand why. I opted for scrambled eggs with mushrooms for a protein boost and the blueberry pancake. The pancake was a revelation – a massive, fluffy delight bursting with fresh, cooked blueberries. Truly, one of the best pancakes I’ve ever tasted.

Balthasar Cologne Breakfast with Blueberry Pancake and Scrambled Eggs

The staff are welcoming, and the restaurant offers both indoor and outdoor seating.

10:30am – Serenity at Melatenfriedhof Cemetery

An unusual yet compelling stop on your travel cologne journey is Melatenfriedhof, Cologne’s oldest cemetery. Unlike typical cemeteries in the UK or USA, German cemeteries are more akin to peaceful parks. Each grave is adorned with a small, lovingly maintained garden. Melatenfriedhof is also the final resting place of the famous Farina family (more on them later, relevant to “travel cologne” history), offering a tranquil space to wander, admire the gardens, trees, and the impressive, sculpture-like graves of Cologne’s prominent citizens. It’s an unexpectedly beautiful and highly recommended visit.

Melatenfriedhof Cemetery Garden with GravestonesMelatenfriedhof Cemetery Path with Trees and Gravestones

11:30am – Delving into Cologne’s History, and the Essence of Travel Cologne

From Melaten, take a tram to Rudolfplatz and alight at Hahnentor. This 13th-century gate once served as the western entrance to medieval Cologne.

Hahnentor Medieval City Gate in Cologne

Walk through Hahnentor and head towards Neumarkt, mentally noting its current appearance for a later surprise. Continue to Kolumba, an art museum built on the ruins of St. Kolumba church. Next, make your way to the 4711 shop & exhibition – a pivotal point in understanding “travel cologne”.

The history of “travel cologne”, or Eau de Cologne, is intertwined with Cologne itself, and there’s a debate about its origin. While 4711 is famously marketed, it was actually Farina who first created Eau de Cologne in 1709, making them the world’s oldest fragrance company. Their Eau de Cologne became a favorite among European royalty. Visiting both perfume shops is essential for any “travel cologne” enthusiast. The 4711 shop features a charming exhibition detailing its history.

4711 Museum Exhibition in Cologne

Just a short walk away is the grand Farina building. More luxurious than 4711, the Farina shop exudes European elegance, and its scent is distinctly more floral.

Farina Perfume Shop Front in CologneFarina Perfume Bottles Display in Cologne

Opposite Farina, a captivating fountain added to the romantic ambiance of the area. Around the corner from Farina is Alter Markt, Cologne’s Old Market. Despite wartime devastation, some of Cologne’s oldest buildings have been reconstructed in the Old Market, creating a beautiful contrast with the 1950s brutalist architecture. Reconstruction continues, with the Rathaus (town hall) recently completed after extensive renovations.

Alter Markt Square in Cologne with Colorful BuildingsAlter Markt Buildings and Fountain in CologneAlter Markt Cobblestone Street and Buildings in Cologne

Near the river is the old fish market, a small square with colorful historic houses, a fountain, outdoor cafes, and St Martin’s Church. This area perfectly encapsulates the charm sought in a “travel cologne” experience.

Alter Markt Old Fish Houses CologneFischmarkt Square with Colorful Houses in CologneAlter Markt St Martin Church and Buildings in Cologne

13:00 – Riverside Lunch at Haxenhaus

Enjoy lunch at Haxenhaus, a beer hall located right on the Rhine River. I was impressed by both the food and the location. The staff were friendly – speaking a little German goes a long way in Germany. My GCSE German surprisingly resurfaced, and I managed to navigate my entire Cologne trip speaking only German! Be prepared for a delightful immersion in German cuisine – I indulged in potatoes, sausage, and sauerkraut throughout my travel cologne days!

Haxenhaus Beer Hall Exterior in Cologne

15:00 – TimeRide Experience: Cologne in the 1920s

The TimeRide experience was a highlight of my travel cologne adventure. It’s a virtual reality (VR) journey that vividly recreates 1920s Cologne before WWII devastation. Sitting in a simulated old tram with a VR headset, you’re transported back in time. Seeing Cologne as it was then – resembling Paris in beauty – was awe-inspiring and emotional, especially with my family connection to the city. Remember Neumarkt? The VR experience reveals its stunning 1926 appearance, a stark contrast to today. This is an immersive way to connect with Cologne’s past. Book the Cologne 1926 TimeRide Experience here.

16:00 – Strudel Break at Cafe Reichard

After TimeRide, a short walk brings you to Cafe Reichard, a Cologne institution since 1905, overlooking the cathedral. Indulge in their incredible strudels – I recommend it with custard – while admiring the cathedral. You can also sit inside the traditional tea room next to their chocolate and sweet shop.

Cafe Reichard Strudel with Custard in CologneCafe Reichard Interior with Cakes and Pastries in Cologne

16:30 – Majestic Cologne Cathedral

Finally, visit the Cologne Cathedral, a truly breathtaking landmark. My great-great-grandfather, a violinist, was said to have played here, adding a personal significance to my visit.

Cologne Cathedral Exterior in Daylight

Stepping inside, the sheer scale and grandeur are overwhelming. Photos cannot capture its immensity and impressiveness. Knowing its history enhances the experience. Construction began in 1248 to house the relics of the Three Wise Men but wasn’t completed in its original medieval design until 1880 – over 600 years! A crane stood atop the cathedral for over 300 years during this period.

Cologne Cathedral Interior with High Arches

Cologne Cathedral Stained Glass Window DetailCologne Cathedral Altar and Religious Art

The cathedral remained operational throughout its construction. Completed in 1880, it was the world’s tallest building for a decade. At the back, view the reliquary holding the bones of the Three Kings. Observe the architectural evolution through stained glass windows from the 15th, 19th, and 21st centuries, and the incredible mosaic flooring.

Cologne Cathedral Mosaic Floor DetailCologne Cathedral Stained Glass Window InteriorCologne Cathedral Interior View from Above

The exterior sandstone is black due to acid rain, originally a pale beige. Cleaned patches reveal the original color, highlighting the damage. Constant scaffolding indicates ongoing cleaning and restoration. For Catholics, services are held throughout the day and evening. Attending evening mass was a beautiful and special experience, connecting me to my ancestors’ faith.

19:30 – Traditional Dinner at Früh am Dom

For an authentic Cologne dining experience, visit Früh am Dom, one of Cologne’s oldest breweries. Enjoy traditional Kölsch beer and hearty local dishes like sausages and sauerkraut. This 100-year-old beer hall feels like a step back in time. I savored the beer-marinated Pork Knuckle and apple strudel for dessert.

Früh am Dom Beer Hall Interior in CologneFrüh am Dom Beer Hall Exterior at Night in Cologne

Cologne is famed for its beer and beer halls. Kölsch beer is unique to Cologne, and waiters (Köbes) continuously serve small glasses until you signal you’re done by placing your beer mat on top of your glass. The Köbes’s direct service style is part of Cologne’s brewery culture – a unique experience for any “travel cologne” visitor.

Früh am Dom Waiter Serving Beer in Cologne

Even as someone who doesn’t usually enjoy beer, I tried Kölsch at four different beer houses in Cologne!

21:00 – Kölsch at Peters Brauhaus

After Früh am Dom, walk to Peters Brauhaus to sample Peters Kölsch under a stunning stained glass ceiling. Trying different Kölsch beers is part of the Cologne experience!

Day 2 in Your Travel Cologne Exploration

9am: Breakfast at Kaffeesaurus

Kaffeesaurus was a favorite foodie spot in Cologne, conveniently located near my hotel, Ruby Ella Cologne. It’s charming and well-priced. I enjoyed their breakfast choices, especially the iced tea and avocado and poached eggs on toast.

Kaffeesaurus Cologne Breakfast with Avocado Toast and Iced Tea

10:00am: Exploring Agnesviertel

Head to Agnesviertel, a beautiful residential area less touristy than the city center. It was less damaged in WWII, preserving more historic buildings and tree-lined avenues.

Agnesviertel Street with Historic Buildings in CologneAgnesviertel Tree Lined Street and Buildings in Cologne

Visit St. Agnes Church and then Keiserlich for gelato.

Agnesviertel Gelato Shop Front in Cologne

Explore boutique shops and cafes around St Agnes Square, and walk to Cologne City Courthouse (Oberlandesgericht Köln) and Fort X, featuring a rose garden (rosengarten) and small park.

Agnesviertel Rose Garden and Park in CologneAgnesviertel City Hall Building Exterior in CologneAgnesviertel Fort X Park Area in Cologne

12:00: Remembering History at EL-DE Haus

A visit to Germany isn’t complete without confronting its Nazi past. EL-DE Haus, the former Gestapo headquarters, is now a museum documenting the Third Reich.

EL-DE Haus Museum Exterior in Cologne

The atmosphere is heavy with history. The basements were used as prison cells and torture chambers, and the building was a site of executions. Inscriptions by inmates remain on the cell walls. Information signs are primarily in German, but audioguides are available in multiple languages, including English. Allow ample time to absorb the powerful exhibits.

EL-DE Haus Prison Cell Inscription DetailEL-DE Haus Museum Interior Exhibit

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, with a small entrance fee.

13:30: Lunch at Funkhaus

Near the Ludwig Museum (your next stop), have a quick, light lunch at Funkhaus, an upscale cafeteria with delicious and reasonably priced options.

14:30: Contemporary Art at Ludwig Museum

The Ludwig Museum, near the cathedral, was a highlight. Its contemporary art collection, featuring Picasso and Warhol, is exceptional. I could have spent hours exploring, even as someone not typically drawn to contemporary art. Tickets are reasonably priced, and it’s open Tuesday to Sunday.

Ludwig Museum Modern Art Interior in Cologne

16:00: Schokoladenmuseum (Chocolate Museum)

Regrettably, I missed the Schokoladenmuseum due to family research at the Cologne Archives. However, it’s on my list for my next travel cologne trip! Indulge your sweet tooth and learn about chocolate-making at this interactive museum, and enjoy chocolate treats afterwards!

19:30: Dinner at Brauerei Päffgen

Brauerei Päffgen became my favorite beer house in Cologne. Located near Friesenplatz, close to my hotel, I loved their beer and food. Päffgen- Kölsch is a renowned Cologne Kölsch, in the same location since 1884. Partially damaged in WWII, it was rebuilt and reopened in 1949.

21:00: Cocktails at Wilma Wunder Köln

A short walk from Päffgen, Wilma Wunder Köln offers excellent cocktails and people-watching. Enjoy a Hugo Spritz on their terrace or the stylish interior bar.

Extra Time? Rhine River Boat Trip

If you have extra time, a Rhine River boat trip offers a different perspective of the cityscape. Evening cruises are particularly stunning at sunset.

Top Travel Cologne Tips

KölnCard: Get a KölnCard for free public transport and discounts on attractions, making your travel cologne experience easier.
Language: German is primary, and English isn’t widely spoken. Basic German phrases are helpful. Avoid ‘ich möchte’ (rude ‘I want’), use ‘ich hätte gerne’ (‘I would like’).
Cash vs. Cards: Cash is preferred; cards aren’t widely accepted, even in larger establishments. Carry enough cash.
Public Transport: Cologne has excellent public transport – trams, buses, trains are efficient. Use U-bahn over taxis.
Respect Local Customs: Greet with “Guten Tag”, wait for green pedestrian signals – Germans are strict about jaywalking. Respect all rules.
Safety: Cologne is generally safe, but be aware of belongings, especially in crowded areas. Be mindful of homelessness and drug use issues, more prevalent than in the UK.

A Perfect Travel Cologne Weekend

Cologne’s unique mix of history, culture, and modern energy makes it a captivating destination. Exploring its beer halls and historical sites was incredibly enjoyable. Revisiting my German language skills was a bonus. It was a perfect weekend, and I plan to return for Cologne’s famous Carnival! Safe travels and viel Spaß im Köln!