My introduction to Maine’s enchanting MidCoast region was serendipitous. A spontaneous road trip with my father, intended for Acadia National Park, took an unexpected turn, leading us to discover a hidden gem. Leaving behind the hustle of Massachusetts, we sought respite in the tranquility of Maine, little did we know, fate had a different itinerary planned.
Our journey towards Downeast was abruptly halted in Rockland. A car malfunction, ironically right in front of the Rockland Fire Department, rerouted our adventure. Fortuitously, a local mechanic worked wonders over the weekend, swiftly getting us back on track. This unplanned pause gifted us a day to explore Rockland, unveiling some of my now-cherished spots: Wasses Hot Dogs, serving up uniquely delicious peanut oil-griddled franks; Doorman’s Dairy Dream, with their comforting homemade Grapenut ice cream; the inspiring gardens and greenhouses of Primo restaurant; and a memorable hike around Owl’s Head Lighthouse, where we gathered more sumac than we could possibly use. Acadia remained unchecked on our list that weekend, but as it turned out, this detour was the perfect initiation to the MidCoast’s allure. Life often has a funny way of leading you exactly where you need to be, as both my father and I found ourselves calling Maine home just a few years later.
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Since becoming a Mainer, MidCoast has been my frequent escape. Whether for a quick overnight stay or a day dedicated to exploring its burgeoning culinary scene, it’s a region that consistently draws me back. MidCoast encompasses a stretch of Maine’s coastline, a landscape of rolling hills meeting rugged shores, and home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the state. It’s truly unique. Summer brings the peak tourist season, with Wiscasset traffic jams, premium hotel rates, and coveted restaurant reservations. For me, September and early October offer the quintessential MidCoast experience. The foliage begins its vibrant transformation, mirroring the pleasant, still-mild temperatures.
While the coastal towns here exude a quieter charm compared to the bustle of Portland, they nurture close-knit communities and a dynamic, evolving food culture. Here’s your guide to planning an unforgettable trip to one of the Best Maine Travel Destinations.
Culinary Delights: Where to Eat in MidCoast Maine
Brunswick often marks the start of my MidCoast journeys. If timing aligns, a stop at Dutchman’s for a bagel is a must. The owner, a Rose Foods of Portland alumnus, initially launched Dutchman’s as a pop-up within the Fort Andross Mill. Its overwhelming popularity led to a permanent spot, now serving exceptional wood-fired bagels, crispy on the outside, chewy inside – truly among Maine’s best. Available Thursday through Sunday, these bagels are in high demand. Pre-ordering online or an early start is advisable if you plan to grab these coveted treats.
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For food enthusiasts venturing to Maine, The Lost Kitchen is often a name that surfaces. Chef Erin French’s acclaimed restaurant, nestled in a charming Freedom mill, is notoriously difficult to book, with reservations exclusively through a postcard lottery. Despite my own persistent attempts over three years, a coveted dining experience remains elusive. However, for those equally unlucky, The Lost Kitchen offers a delightful store. It features locally crafted kitchenware, home goods, and more, providing a tangible piece of the Lost Kitchen magic, even without securing a table.
The Place, a micro-bakery in Camden, opened its doors last year and is quickly gaining renown. Owned by a talented duo from Long Island, they prioritize local flour and dairy, crafting pastries that are nothing short of spectacular. Their menu boasts cookies, croissants, and inventive rotating specials. Think savory pastries filled with radicchio jam and celery walnut gremolata, or a yogurt danish with carrot puree, yogurt curd, and wild Maine blueberries. Pre-orders are accepted 72 hours before pickup, otherwise, arriving early is essential. The Place’s popularity is well-deserved; their laminated dough creations are truly exceptional, ranking among the finest I’ve ever tasted.
While Portland’s dining scene garners significant attention, my personal favorite Maine restaurant resides in Rockland. Sammy’s Deluxe is a place you eagerly recommend to fellow food lovers, a true hidden gem. The menu features beloved staples like the House Smoked Haddock Snacks, Brown Bread (baked in a can for a nostalgic touch), and Sammy’s Cheeseburger, my personal favorite. The rest of the menu is equally inspired and changes frequently, reflecting seasonal ingredients and owner Sammy Richman’s foraged finds, such as the unique Chicken-of-the-Woods Fettuccine Alfredo.
During the early days of travel re-emergence in 2020, local exploration became our focus. Our first extended drive led us to MidCoast, and our first meal was from Long Grain in Camden. Their ingenious takeout system, featuring coolers for contactless meal pickup, offered a sense of comfort and safety. Those first bites of crab fried rice were transformative, a culinary awakening after months of home-cooked meals. Since then, I’ve enjoyed dining indoors, consistently impressed by every dish on their menu. From the comforting Kao Soi Gai with pickled mustard greens to the vibrant Nam Tok beef salad with its irresistibly delicious broth, Long Grain is perfect year-round. It’s a haven for warmth on chilly days and a cool escape when the summer heat intensifies.
Unforgettable Experiences: Things to Do in MidCoast Maine
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As a pastry chef with a shared passion for kitchenware, Recycling Retro in Woolwich is an essential stop. My affinity for mid-century design makes browsing their extensive collection of vintage kitchen items, from percolators to Pyrex, a delightful treasure hunt.
One of my earliest Maine discoveries was More & Co., a shop curated with exquisite objects. It showcased blue and white ceramics by local artist Chloe May Brown and whimsical circus stools and prints from CDR (whose art now graces my home). While More & Co. has closed, Maria Vettesse has recently opened Angelo Santo in Wiscasset, carrying forward some of the same beloved treasures and introducing new delights.
Morse’s Sauerkraut in Waldoboro is a unique German-style delicatessen and grocery, offering European goods. They’ve upheld a century-old sauerkraut recipe and production method, using local, hand-cut cabbage. Morse’s sauerkraut, found in Maine retailers and restaurants, is truly exceptional – the best I’ve ever tasted. It’s the perfect place to stock up on road trip snacks or late-night treats. Given MidCoast’s early restaurant closing times, a Morse’s haul has often been a lifesaver for evening cravings.
First Fig in Camden, owned by Joanna Spinks, is a neighborhood gem combining a bottle shop and wine bar. It serves locally roasted coffee from Kavka, pastries from nearby The Place, and hosts vibrant events. From makers markets to weekly oyster nights and Taco Sundays, First Fig is a community hub.
A visit to Glidden Point Oyster Farm is essential for oyster aficionados. Farm tours offer an in-depth look at oyster cultivation, or you can simply order fresh oysters at the window. A quick shucking lesson and enjoying oysters at a waterfront picnic table is a quintessential Maine experience. Learning to shuck oysters might just be the most unique and delicious souvenir you can bring home from Maine.
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The Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay offer a stunning 300-acre escape. Open from May to October, these gardens are ideal for stretching your legs before or after indulging in MidCoast’s culinary scene. Their website provides updates on current blooms, enhancing your visit. Autumn, with its changing foliage, is a particularly beautiful and tranquil time to explore these gardens.
Mount Battie, just north of Camden, is part of the extensive Camden Hills State Park trail system. Offering both a scenic auto road and a 1.1-mile hike to the summit, the mountain rewards visitors with panoramic views of Penobscot Bay and Camden Harbor. The hike is moderately easy, but the drive is equally rewarding, especially for those seeking breathtaking fall foliage views. The vista of the autumn colors, rolling hills, and Camden below is simply stunning.
Relax and Recharge: Where to Stay in MidCoast Maine
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Whitehall, a mere 10-minute walk from downtown Camden, offers historic charm. This former ship captain’s mansion, dating back to 1834 and converted into an inn in 1901, is now part of the Lark Hotels collection. Its 36 rooms are decorated with vibrant colors and coastal accents. While Whitehall doesn’t have a full restaurant, guests enjoy a delightful breakfast of pastries and overnight oats, plus afternoon cookies. Rooms are cozy, and some offer shared hall bathrooms, so reviewing room details before booking is recommended. The front porch, fire pit, and shuffleboard courts are perfect for unwinding after a day of MidCoast exploration. Literary enthusiasts will appreciate that this historic inn is where poet Edna St. Vincent Millay was discovered in 1912, reciting her poem “Renascence,” inspired by nearby Mount Battie.
250 Main Hotel, located in downtown Rockland near the harbor, is a 26-room, pet-friendly boutique hotel. Rooms feature reclaimed and vintage furniture, oversized windows, and local artwork throughout the property. Thoughtful touches like heated bathroom floors and towel racks enhance comfort, especially on cooler evenings. The rooftop deck is a must-visit, and the daily happy hour with complimentary drinks and snacks is a welcoming touch.
The Norumbega, a recently renovated boutique hotel just outside Camden, offers unparalleled Penobscot Bay views. Autumn foliage further enhances the scenic beauty. Guest rooms feature private patios, fireplaces, and even a two-story library suite. The hotel bar crafts excellent cocktails, like a perfect Boulevardier, ideal for enjoying on the patio as the leaves turn. The on-site fire pit is another highlight, perfect for chilly fall evenings.
MidCoast Maine, with its blend of culinary experiences, outdoor adventures, and charming accommodations, truly stands out as one of the best Maine travel destinations. From unexpected detours to planned explorations, this region promises unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for Maine’s coastal beauty.
