Embarking on a journey through Peru transcends mere sightseeing; it’s an immersion into a land of ancient mysteries, breathtaking landscapes, and vibrant culture. My adventure began not on foot, but aboard two of the world’s most luxurious trains, the Hiram Bingham and the Andean Explorer, both Belmond icons, promising an unparalleled perspective of this South American gem. As the train gently swayed to life, a guitarist’s melody filled the air, instantly setting the stage for a voyage where the destination is only half the story. Ecuadorian passengers swayed to the rhythm, their ponchos a blur of color, while a pisco sour, Peru’s signature cocktail, appeared in my hand as if by magic. Leaning against the observation car railing, the Peruvian sun warmed my face as eucalyptus trees flashed by, the tracks behind us a shrinking testament to the adventure unfolding.
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Grassland on the high plateau leading into the Sacred Valley, Peru.
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Contrasting Peruvian landscapes: the ancient stone arch and vast desert highlighting Peru’s diverse beauty.
Having traversed railways across the globe, South America remained uncharted territory. The continent’s fragmented rail network had always seemed to deter grand train expeditions. However, the allure of the Andes and its unique wildlife proved irresistible. My Peruvian rail odyssey commenced with a day trip to Machu Picchu on the Hiram Bingham, followed by a two-night journey aboard the Andean Explorer to Lake Titicaca and onward to Arequipa. This was to be Peru explored in lavish comfort, a far cry from conventional travel.
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Cultural traditions and luxury travel: a train blessing ceremony precedes a journey in the lavish Hiram Bingham lounge car.
Navigating through the dancing passengers, I returned to my plush seat in the vintage-style carriage, a slight nervousness fluttering as I noted the delicate crystal and pristine linen. Within an hour, the landscape transformed into towering canyon walls, and prickly pear cacti with their peculiar fruits dotted the terrain outside my window. The carriage interior was a masterpiece of polished wood, gleaming brass, and soft lamp light. Around me, fellow travelers were equally captivated – Italians debating politics, quiet readers gazing at the snow-capped Nevado Verónica, and a social media influencer striking poses against the stunning backdrop.
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Cultural heritage and natural wonders: Quechua women and the ancient salt terraces of Maras near the Sacred Valley.
Lunch was a showcase of Sacred Valley produce – succulent pork belly, nutty quinoa, and creamy choclo corn. As we journeyed deeper, the scenery shifted to jungle, the air grew warmer, and Spanish moss brushed the train roof. Gazing out, I was reminded of the intimate glimpses train travel offers into local lives. A mother hanging laundry, a child on a makeshift swing, a farmer tending his donkey – these were fleeting yet profound vignettes of everyday Peruvian life. Small roadside shrines adorned with flowers in recycled bottles hinted at untold stories and silent wishes.
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Panoramic Andean vistas unfold from the lounge car window of the luxurious Andean Explorer train.
Post-lunch, as champagne flowed, I almost succumbed to drowsiness. Seeking fresh air, I returned to the observation car and met Diana Evans, a British novelist seeking respite. “I needed this peace,” she confided, the roar of the Urubamba River echoing below, “I could stay here forever.” The appearance of porters on the tracks signaled our approach to Aguas Calientes, the Hiram Bingham‘s terminus and the gateway to Machu Picchu. Tubular cantuta flowers, vibrant orange, heralded our arrival.
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The observation car of the Andean Explorer offering immersive views of the Peruvian countryside between Puno and Arequipa.
The bus ascent to Machu Picchu revealed why this Inca citadel remained hidden for so long. A winding route through lush, steep terrain led to a plateau where the Lost City of the Incas unfolded in breathtaking splendor. The perfectly sculpted terraces, temples bathed in afternoon light, and surrounding forested hills created a scene both familiar and awe-inspiring. Our guide, Fátima Silverio Carbajal, unveiled the ongoing mysteries of Machu Picchu, a site whose Quechua name simply means “Old Mountain,” yet holds layers of untold history.
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The Andean Explorer pauses overnight at its highest elevation point under a breathtaking Peruvian starry sky.
Built around 1450 by Emperor Pachacuteq, Machu Picchu was strategically positioned to connect the Andes and the Amazon, serving as a vital political and religious center. Home to royals, scholars, and astronomers, it was also a place of worship for Pachamama, the earth mother, the Inca deity embodying the power of nature. As viscachas and llamas grazed nearby, and shadows crept across the ancient stones, the spirit of Inti, the Inca sun god, seemed palpable. The distant sound of a train whistle echoed through the valley, a reminder of the journey’s continuation.
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Alpacas in the Inca citadel of Saqsaywaman, showcasing the blend of wildlife and ancient history near Cuzco.
Cuzco, at 11,152 feet, is a city where altitude is keenly felt. My next leg, aboard the Andean Explorer, promised even greater heights, journeying to Puno on Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake. To acclimatize, I spent two nights in Cuzco at Belmond’s Monasterio and Palacio Nazarenas, nestled in the Spanish-colonial Plazoleta de las Nazarenas. The square buzzed with life – market stalls, women with baby alpacas, and the slow rhythm of high-altitude living. Wandering the cobblestone streets, I admired the vibrant textiles, learning that the rainbow Inca flags represented our connection to Pachamama.
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Visitors explore the high-altitude plateau at Moray, experiencing Peru’s expansive and elevated terrains.
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Cuzco’s Sacred Garden, part of the Temple of the Sun complex, offering a glimpse into the city’s historical and natural beauty.
Boarding the Andean Explorer in Cuzco, the train initially mirrored city life before quickly transitioning to the Inca ruins of Tipón. The ingenious andenes terraces, designed for microclimates and crop experimentation, showcased Inca agricultural innovation. An ancient irrigation system still flowed, a sparkling stream accompanying our journey.
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Machu Picchu’s main plaza, displaying the architectural marvel and landscape integration of the Inca citadel.
Lunch in the dining car was accompanied by the soulful sounds of a quena flute. Lime-infused ceviche, made with corvina fish and local corn, burst with flavor, the ají adding a spicy kick. Reflecting on past luxury train journeys, including the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the Andean Explorer felt uniquely welcoming. Perhaps it was the train’s intimate occupancy, but passengers quickly formed a convivial community, sharing stories and pisco sours. I connected with Johann and Margarita Espiritu, celebrating their anniversary, and a group of Indian retirees from Missouri, their annual grand adventure unfolding in Peru.
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Observing Peru’s landscapes from the Hiram Bingham and the impressive sunken terraces of Moray, an Inca archaeological site.
As dusk painted the sky in pink hues, the Vilcanota peaks softened into silhouettes. Village lights twinkled on the hillsides, and the setting sun reflected in streams, creating an illusion of tiny fires on the land. My cabin transformed into a cozy bedroom, complete with a hot-water bottle for the high-altitude chill. Awakening to a violet dawn, the train had paused at Puno station for undisturbed sleep. Stepping onto the platform, wrapped in an alpaca blanket, Lake Titicaca shimmered like liquid metal, the sunrise over its still waters an unforgettable spectacle.
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Lake Titicaca’s serene beauty viewed from a hilltop, capturing the vastness and tranquility of the high-altitude lake.
At 12,500 feet, the altitude was palpable, yet the breathtaking sunrise and muña tea eased the symptoms. Boat excursions across Lake Titicaca led to the Uros floating islands, constructed entirely of reeds, and Taquile Island, renowned for its weaving traditions. From Taquile’s highest point, the sparkling lake stretched to the Bolivian Andes, a reminder of Peru’s incredible altitude and beauty. That night, overlooking Lake Saracocha, the train below resembled a serpent in the landscape. The whispering wind felt like Pachamama’s voice, revealing secrets accessible only by this unique rail journey.
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Colorful flowers along the railway tracks in the Sacred Valley, adding to the scenic beauty of Peru’s landscapes.
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Machu Picchu, with Huayna Picchu peak behind, showcasing the iconic Inca citadel in its majestic setting.
The journey towards Arequipa commenced with another stunning sunrise. Back in the observation car, pisco sour in hand, canyons and vicuñas flashed by. As the Andean Explorer descended into Arequipa, the majestic El Misti volcano loomed in the distance. Disembarking in Arequipa, a sense of shared melancholy hung in the air as passengers gazed back at the receding Andes, carrying with them the spirit of Pachamama.
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Peruvian hospitality and scenery: a staff member at Monasterio hotel and a view of Cuzco rooftops with the Andes.
Experience the Luxury: Belmond Trains and Hotels of Peru
Hiram Bingham, a Belmond Train: A day of unparalleled luxury on the 47-mile round trip from Cuzco to Machu Picchu. Your ticket includes gourmet dining onboard, afternoon tea at the Sanctuary Lodge in Machu Picchu, site entrance, and a guided tour.
Andean Explorer, a Belmond Train: Embark on a two-night journey from Cuzco to Lake Titicaca and Arequipa. Enjoy glamorous sleeper cabins with en-suite facilities.
Monasterio, a Belmond Hotel, Cusco: Immerse yourself in Cuzco’s culture at this former monastery, a tranquil oasis in the city center.
Palacio Nazarenas, a Belmond Hotel, Cusco: Located in a 17th-century nunnery, offering in-suite oxygen enrichment for altitude acclimatization.
This article is adapted from a feature originally published in Travel + Leisure, November 2024.
