Blog post from May 2009.
The late 1980s and early 1990s were a fascinating period for footwear, witnessing the rise of numerous new shoe brands. Among them was Travel Fox Footwear, an Italian brand that captured the attention of trendsetters and became synonymous with high-end, sports-inspired style. In an era where athletic purpose was often secondary to making a statement, Travel Fox carved a unique niche, influencing perceptions of value and style in the sneaker world.
Even today, the allure of high-end sports-inspired shoes persists, exemplified by collaborations like Kanye West’s creations with Louis Vuitton and the ongoing Yeezy line. Travel Fox was arguably a precursor to this phenomenon, a brand that instilled the idea that price tag equated to prestige. For many, owning a pair of Travel Fox footwear was a definitive status symbol, setting a new benchmark for aspirational footwear. This brand opened the floodgates for premium sneakers and has a lasting legacy in the evolution of sneaker culture.
However, the detailed history of Travel Fox remains somewhat elusive. The brand’s popularity in the late 80s was fueled by its adoption among influential style circles. These were the same trendsetting individuals who popularized brands like Click Suits and Chipie, European lifestyle products embraced and reinterpreted by a new audience. Vikings and Ballys were also part of this aspirational mix. It’s surprising that the pinrolled, high-end style of that era hasn’t been more thoroughly examined beyond contemporary fashion magazine features. As an observer of that time, the impact of these brands, including Travel Fox footwear, was undeniable.
Travel Fox originated in Italy, crafting premium sneakers designed for everyday wear. Ashley Schapiro, an entrepreneur, recognized their potential and began importing them into the United States around 1985/86 through Hongson International, a New York-based company with strong connections in the Far East. Hongson International played a crucial role in transferring Italian manufacturing expertise to Asian factories, ensuring Travel Fox footwear aligned with the luxury aesthetics of brands like Bally, Gucci, and MCM. The brand also gained notoriety for its provocative advertising campaigns, although one campaign ultimately led to controversy and a change in ad agencies in 1987 due to its sexually suggestive content during the AIDS epidemic. Travel Fox footwear reached the UK market a couple of years later, though whether these were US or Italian imports, or part of a UK licensing agreement, remains unclear. In that era, standing out and demonstrating individuality through unique style choices was paramount, a stark contrast to today’s trends toward uniformity.
Brands like Troop, another high-priced brand, faced challenges due to unfounded rumors, impacting their image and market position. While Troop became less desirable, Travel Fox footwear maintained its appeal for a longer period, especially outside major fashion centers. In smaller towns, the brand retained its cool factor for an extended time. Even rumors surrounding other brands, like Reebok, and supposed dubious investors circulated, perhaps fueled by competitors like Travel Fox. The endorsement of Travel Fox by Tone Loc, a popular figure at the time, further solidified its street credibility.
Reebok, however, made a significant impact with the introduction of the original Pump, later known as The Bringback in 1989. This shoe embodied the era’s spirit of excess. While retrospectively considered garish by some, it was initially a sensation, even spotted on figures like Jonathan King, who boasted about being the first in the UK to own a pair, purchased at a hefty £175. Travel Fox footwear distinguished itself with its even higher price point, around £140. This was substantially more expensive than other premium sneakers of the time, such as the Air Trainer SC and Stab at £85, or Air Jordan IVs at £65. This premium pricing immediately signaled exclusivity and desirability.
Beyond the price, Travel Fox footwear was recognized for its superior quality. The use of soft nappa leather, detailed hangtags, and packaging that included a mini-essay justifying the purchase all contributed to the brand’s premium feel and desirability. However, their exclusivity also made them somewhat elusive. By the time Travel Fox basketball-inspired models reached store shelves, the initial hype had started to fade.
The late Tony Wilson, known for his association with Factory Records and the Hacienda nightclub, was famously seen wearing Travel Fox footwear with Armani suits, creating a distinctive high-fashion, Italian-inspired mismatch. The BBC’s fashion program ‘The Clothes Show’ even featured Travel Fox as an example of overpriced high-top sneakers. Numerous pop stars produced by Stock, Aitken and Waterman, a dominant pop music production team, were also seen sporting the brand. Despite the mixed associations, the comfort of Travel Fox footwear contributed to its popularity among club-goers and those embracing the baggy rave style, who had the disposable income to invest in premium footwear.
By 1990, a brand rivalry was intensifying among young people. Besides established brands, Fila Hikers and suede Champion sneakers were also gaining popularity. Even smaller towns had stores catering to a clientele willing to pay for exclusive, high-priced shoes. K-Swiss attempted to market its Classic model in the UK to those seeking to elevate their style. Travel Fox suede shoes were readily available at a slight premium over Jordans, cheaper than their initial launch price but still positioned as a premium product. Figures like Jazzy B and the Soul II Soul crew further enhanced the brand’s cool image. However, as quickly as it rose to prominence, Travel Fox footwear’s ubiquity led to its decline in popularity. Overexposure diminished the brand’s appeal as a niche, high-status item.
In the same period, US brand representatives began using the term “casualetic” to describe shoes like Travel Fox – casual shoes with athletic influences, emphasizing their non-athletic purpose. By 1992, Travel Fox was being marketed as upmarket hiking footwear in US clothing stores. However, Travel Fox US struggled, even venturing into performance athletic footwear, a move that signaled a departure from its original identity. By the mid-1990s, the brand had largely disappeared from the US market for several years.
In Europe, the trajectory of Travel Fox footwear was different. A UK license was reportedly held by the same company that developed Caterpillar footwear. Travel Fox was a key brand in the early days of Offspring, a UK-based sneaker retailer. However, by 1997, Travel Fox footwear could be found in Offspring stores attempting to compete with contemporary styles like NB 576s, Superstars, Acupuncture, shiny Air Maxes, and Terras, priced around £45. This marked a significant drop from its original premium pricing, suggesting the brand was struggling to regain relevance. In the US, it was rumored that Travel Fox footwear was being sold at discount prices in clearance bins.
Whether this European presence was due to a UK licensee or a last-ditch effort by Travel Fox Italy remains uncertain. Around the early 2000s, there were sightings of re-released late 80s Travel Fox models, indicating attempts to capitalize on nostalgia. Ashley Schapiro became the sole US distributor again in 1999, attempting to revive the brand he had initially championed.
SPX, a brand once associated with Lennox Lewis and reminiscent of Troop, also attempted a similar revival strategy in the early 2000s, but with limited success. Even Troop itself struggled to make a successful comeback, despite celebrity endorsements. In a further twist, JJB Sports, a UK-based discount sports retailer, acquired the Travel Fox and Champion labels around 2007, signaling a shift towards mass-market positioning for brands that once represented exclusivity.
Online searches reveal JJB Sports-era Travel Fox designs, raising questions about the brand’s current direction. Jump Shoes, a division of Hongson launched in 1992, has also promoted its version of the Vanquish model, though this particular silhouette was not as prominent in the UK market during Travel Fox’s peak. Jump Shoes’ renewed interest suggests an awareness of the cyclical nature of fashion and the potential for a resurgence in demand for independent, fashion-focused shoes that prioritize style over athletic performance.
Without the original era’s context, the Travel Fox branding may now point to licensing arrangements or the permanent disappearance of Travel Fox US. With the internet demystifying brands and trends, the same sense of exclusivity and intrigue may be difficult to recapture. However, the resurgence of retro sneaker trends indicates a potential opportunity for brands like Travel Fox to reconnect with consumers who appreciate heritage and unique design. Travel Fox footwear, in its heyday, resonated more deeply than its brief period of mainstream fame might suggest.
(Apologies to everyone whose picture archives, eBay or otherwise, I raided to decorate this blogpost.)
If there’s any ex-Travel Fox employees out there around for an interview – Holler!
