Iceland, the land of fire and ice, boasts a saying that perfectly encapsulates its spirit and is almost an unofficial motto: Þetta reddast (pronounced “thetta rettast”). This Icelandic phrase, lacking a direct English translation, essentially means, “Ehhh, it’ll be fine…” As my Reykjavik-based friend, Pétur Magnusson, explains, “It’s deeply ingrained in our national identity. We use it when facing adversity, embracing whatever comes our way.” It’s not about passivity, but rather about accepting the uncontrollable, adapting, and adjusting what you can.
This philosophy is invaluable for anyone venturing into this rugged and remote island nation for the first time. Iceland’s weather is notoriously unpredictable, and unexpected challenges, like volcanic activity, can arise. Recent eruptions near Grindavik in southern Iceland serve as a stark reminder of nature’s power, with tourists advised to avoid the area. However, the vast majority of Iceland remains open, offering incredible experiences for those willing to embody the Þetta reddast attitude, especially when choosing to Travel In Iceland during the enchanting off-season.
My own Icelandic adventure in October proved just that. Pétur, my high school friend who returned to his Icelandic roots after years in California, became my local guide. For two weeks, I traversed this breathtaking landscape with him and other friends, constantly adapting to the capricious weather, capturing countless photos, and thoroughly enjoying every moment. Here’s what I discovered about traveling in Iceland, particularly during the shoulder season.
The stunning Icelandic highlands in fall
Why Choose Off-Season Travel in Iceland?
Opting for an Icelandic adventure during the off-season, encompassing autumn and spring, presents several compelling advantages that enhance your travel in Iceland experience:
Budget-Friendly Iceland Travel
While airfare to Iceland is often reasonable, especially with Iceland Air’s numerous direct flights from the U.S., on-the-ground costs can quickly escalate. Accommodation, vehicle rentals, tours, and many non-food expenses become significantly more affordable outside the peak summer months. Traveling in Iceland during the shoulder season allows you to experience the magic without breaking the bank.
Fewer Crowds, More Authentic Iceland
The off-season in Iceland sees a noticeable decrease in tourist numbers. This translates to less crowded trails, more opportunities for stunning, unobstructed photographs, and crucially, greater flexibility with last-minute bookings. This adaptability is key to maximizing your trip, allowing you to adjust plans based on ever-changing conditions and still enjoy the best of what travel in Iceland has to offer.
Witness the Aurora Borealis in Iceland
One of the most magical reasons to travel in Iceland during the off-season is the chance to witness the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. Visible primarily outside of summer, Iceland’s northerly location means the summer sky never truly darkens, hindering aurora viewing. Iceland is globally renowned as a prime location for witnessing this celestial phenomenon. If seeing the Northern Lights is on your bucket list, pack your warmest layers and plan your travel in Iceland for the shoulder season to maximize your chances. (More on prime Northern Lights viewing spots later!)
Golden hour in the cave behind Seljalandsfoss waterfall
Essential Tips for Shoulder-Season Travel in Iceland
While travel in Iceland during the shoulder season offers unique benefits, it also presents certain challenges. Weather is the primary consideration. Positioned in the Atlantic Ocean, just south of the Arctic Circle, Iceland is prone to rain, snow, and its infamous winds, especially in the colder months. Shorter daylight hours also mean you’ll want to make the most of each day by starting early.
Packing Essentials for Iceland Weather
Layering is absolutely crucial for travel in Iceland. Bring plenty of layers to adapt to fluctuating temperatures and conditions. My daily clothing system included:
- Thermal base layers (tops and bottoms)
- Thick wool hiking socks
- Altra Lone Peak hiking boots: Reliable and waterproof hiking footwear is essential for navigating Iceland’s diverse terrains.
- Smartwool hoodie: A warm and breathable mid-layer for added insulation.
- REI XeroDry GTX Gore-Tex rainproof pants: Waterproof and windproof outer pants are vital for Iceland’s unpredictable weather.
- Mountain Hardware Boundary Ridge gloves: Waterproof gloves to keep your hands warm and dry.
- Super-warm wind/rain-proof Helly Hansen Tromsoe Jacket: A robust outer jacket offering maximum protection against wind and rain.
- Wind-proof Mountain Hardware Dome Perignon Pro hat: A warm, windproof hat to protect your head and ears in cold weather.
This kit kept me comfortable even in sideways rain.
Tech Essentials for Iceland: Don’t forget a European power adapter as Iceland uses European plugs. Bringing one or two adapters, plus a power strip, will allow you to charge multiple devices simultaneously.
The wind gusts were actually strong enough to hold the author up like this.
Navigating Iceland: Transportation Options
Having your own transportation is highly recommended for travel in Iceland, especially if you’re seeking adventurous experiences beyond the main tourist routes. While buses operate in certain areas, vehicular independence is key to exploring Iceland’s rugged beauty. Tour groups are an option, but they limit your flexibility and often involve larger crowds.
Choosing the Right Vehicle for Iceland Roads
Vehicle selection significantly impacts your travel in Iceland, determining where you can and cannot venture. During colder months, roads can become icy and snowy. Even if you plan to stay in hotels and not camp, renting a vehicle with all-wheel drive (AWD) or four-wheel drive (4WD) is strongly advised. Ensure it has robust tires and good ground clearance. This will enhance safety and allow you to explore more remote areas with fewer tourists. MyCar Iceland offers a range of 4WD Toyotas starting at reasonable daily rates.
Campervan or 4×4 with Rooftop Tent: Accommodation and Transport Combined
For a unique travel in Iceland experience, consider a campervan or a 4×4 equipped with a rooftop tent. These are popular choices among adventure travelers in Iceland, offering flexibility and cost savings by combining accommodation and transportation. Numerous campsites are located across the island. Ensure your rental van has a heater (diesel or propane) and, again, prioritize AWD or 4WD with appropriate tires and clearance. If opting for a rooftop tent, consider traveling in the slightly warmer shoulder months like September or May, as sleeping in a rooftop tent during the coldest months can be challenging.
Always research and read reviews of rental outfitters before booking. Some offer varying levels of SOS services, which can be crucial in Iceland’s remote areas. Campervans and rooftop tent setups often include bedding, a camp kitchen, stove, fuel, and a plug-in cooler, maximizing self-sufficiency. A WiFi router can be a worthwhile add-on for booking campsites and navigation. Rent.is provides options for rooftop tents and campervans with varying prices.
Staying Informed About Iceland Road Conditions
Regardless of your vehicle choice, the UMFERDIN website is an invaluable resource. It provides real-time updates on road conditions and closures, saving you considerable time and potential headaches during your travel in Iceland.
Exercise caution while driving in Iceland. Be aware of your driving abilities and the limitations of your vehicle. Ensure your tires have adequate tread for the conditions you might encounter. When in doubt, err on the side of caution and avoid driving in risky conditions.
One of Iceland’s so-called “Super-Jeeps” on a volcanic mesa deep in the interior
Dining in Iceland: Practicalities and Local Flavors
Food costs in Iceland are generally high, primarily due to the need to import most goods. Iceland is not widely known as a culinary hotspot, though there are notable exceptions. Stocking up on groceries at supermarkets like Bonus or Krónan in Reykjavik before venturing out is a smart way to manage expenses. Beyond basic supplies like peanut butter and jelly, try Icelandic yogurt (skyr), a delicious and healthy staple.
Don’t miss cod jerky, a local snack often enjoyed with Icelandic butter. Icelandic carrots are exceptionally sweet and crunchy. For the adventurous, sample salmiakbitar, salted black licorice, a famously divisive Icelandic treat.
Cod jerky with Icelandic butter. Don’t knock it ‘till ya try it…
Arrival in Iceland: Keflavík and Reykjanes Peninsula
Your travel in Iceland begins upon arrival at Keflavík International Airport. Flights from the U.S. often arrive early in the morning, potentially leaving you feeling jet-lagged. Consider taking it easy on your first day. The Reykjanes Peninsula, located near the airport and en route to Reykjavik, offers a fantastic introduction to Iceland’s dramatic landscapes. Then, proceed to Reykjavik to explore its cultural attractions.
Reykjanes Peninsula Highlights
The drive from Keflavík to Reykjavik is a visually stunning 40-minute journey through otherworldly landscapes. You’ll pass vast lava fields and the iconic Blue Lagoon. (Note: many locals consider the Blue Lagoon overpriced and overly touristy, though undeniably beautiful. It may also be subject to closures due to volcanic activity.)
If you manage to overcome jet lag and are eager to explore immediately, the Reykjanes Peninsula offers several must-see spots:
- Seltún Geothermal Area: Witness bubbling mud pools and steaming vents in this intensely geothermal landscape.
- Krísuvíkurberg Cliffs: Experience dramatic sea cliffs with sheer drops into the Atlantic Ocean.
- Reykjanes Lighthouse and Valahnúkamöl: Explore the historic lighthouse and the rugged, beautiful rocky coastline of Valahnúkamöl.
For a memorable meal, try the lobster soup at Café Bryggjan in Grindavík. However, note that Grindavík has been significantly impacted by recent seismic activity and volcanic eruptions, and its future is uncertain. This situation highlights the need for adaptability when you travel in Iceland.
Exploring Reykjavik: Iceland’s Capital City
One of many stunning sculptures at the Einar Jónsson Museum
Reykjavik Hot Dogs: Upon arriving in Reykjavik, your first culinary mission should be to try an Icelandic hot dog. Icelandic hot dogs are renowned for their crispy fried onions, unique sauces, soft buns, and flavorful wieners.
Historic Downtown Reykjavik: Explore Reykjavik’s historic downtown on foot. Visit the Einar Jónsson Museum, showcasing impressive sculptures, and explore the waterfront area, including the Harpa Concert Hall.
Local Reykjavik Hot Springs: For an authentic Icelandic hot spring experience, visit one of Reykjavik’s numerous public pools like Laugardalslaug (entry around $10). These pools, unlike the Blue Lagoon, offer a more local and less touristy experience. Iceland’s heating and hot water are geothermally sourced, rich in minerals, and incredibly soothing. Public pools are integral to Icelandic culture, featuring hot tubs at various temperatures, saunas, cold plunges, and even waterslides.
Be sure to adhere to the showering etiquette (shower naked and wash thoroughly with soap before entering the pools). The waters are considered sacred by locals, and respecting these customs is important. Public pools are also social hubs, offering opportunities to meet friendly locals and gain insider travel tips. English is widely spoken in Iceland, but learning a few basic Icelandic phrases will be appreciated.
Icelandic Lamb Stew: For dinner in Reykjavik, savor Kjötsúpa, a traditional and hearty Icelandic lamb stew, before resting up for your Iceland adventures.
Shoulder-Season Iceland Itinerary for First-Timers
Súgandisey Island Lighthouse
While Reykjavik is charming, the true allure of travel in Iceland lies in its natural wonders. My impromptu trip evolved into a loop through western and southern Iceland. Use this itinerary as inspiration, adapting it to your interests and the ever-changing conditions of shoulder-season travel in Iceland. Here are some highlights:
Day 1: Waterfalls and Hot Springs
Just a handful of the dozens of waterfalls at Barnafoss
Leaving Reykjavik, our first major stop was Barnafoss, a massive collection of waterfalls a couple of hours northeast of the city. (“Foss” means waterfall in Icelandic.) Waterproof layers are essential here, as the mist can be intense. Barnafoss is ideal for practicing long-exposure photography. A tripod, variable ND filter, and lens wipes are recommended.
From Barnafoss, backtrack west for 20 minutes to the natural hot springs at Krauma ($50). While less known than the Blue Lagoon (and phones are discouraged at both), Krauma offers a relaxing array of geothermal pools and saunas with mountain views and traditional cold plunges.
Continue west to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, a 55-mile stretch often called “Miniature Iceland.” It encompasses diverse Icelandic landscapes: lava fields, waterfalls, black sand beaches, fjords, hot springs, and the iconic Snaefellsjökull glacier volcano. The moss-covered lava fields are particularly captivating.
We stayed overnight at the Fosshotel in Hellnar (from $125 USD in the off-season), offering modest but clean accommodations with stunning ocean views.
Day 2: Coastal Hikes and Peninsula Exploration
Swimming absolutely not recommended
Day two focused on the western tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, starting at viewpoints around Londrangar, showcasing dramatic coastlines with massive waves crashing against volcanic rock formations.
Descend to Djúpalónssandur Beach and Djúpalón Lagoon, where you can hike along a shore covered in smooth pebbles and explore a lagoon that evokes a prehistoric atmosphere. This area has a distinctly primordial feel.
Heading east along the peninsula’s northern side, we stopped at Bæjarfoss waterfall near Ólafsvík. With approximately 10,000 waterfalls in Iceland, even locals can become somewhat desensitized!
We also visited Súgandisey Island Lighthouse, greeted by a rainbow and strong winds. Our overnight stay was at Hotel Varmaland in Borgarnes (from $250), where I enjoyed a delicious lamb steak.
Day 3: Hiking to Remote Waterfalls
The magnificent Glymur Falls
Day three was dedicated to waterfall exploration. First, we visited the secluded Fitjarfoss, where we were the only visitors, enjoying its tranquility. This was a prelude to the more demanding four-mile hike to Glymur Falls, Iceland’s second-tallest waterfall at 650 feet. The hike is steep and slippery, involving a river crossing and scrambles with significant exposure – hundreds of feet down to the river below. It’s not for the faint of heart but offers stunning views.
The river crossing was impassable during our visit, so we hiked as far as possible on one side. Pétur’s drone captured stunning aerial views. Despite the challenges, the hike was rewarding.
Afterward, we relaxed at the Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths (from $35 per adult), a beautiful outdoor hot spring complex on Laugarvatn Lake. We alternated between hot soaks, saunas, and icy lake plunges, perfect for soothing tired muscles.
Day 4: Golden Circle Highlights
Strokkur Geyser doing its thing
Our plan to ferry to the Westman Islands was thwarted by 60 mph winds and 18-foot swells, leading to ferry cancellations. Shoulder-season travel in Iceland requires flexibility. We easily canceled reservations and, with ample hotel vacancies, redirected our trip away from the wind.
Anticipating fewer tourists due to the harsh weather, we explored popular Golden Circle sites – Iceland’s most visited day-trip route from Reykjavik for those with limited time to drive the entire Ring Road.
This included Gullfoss, a massive, Niagara-like waterfall. Despite tourists and misty, rain-like conditions from the wind, Gullfoss is awe-inspiring.
Nearby is Geysir, the geyser that gave all geysers their name (Icelandic for “to gush”). Geysir itself rarely erupts, but the adjacent Strokkur geyser erupts every 10 minutes, shooting water 60 to 120 feet into the air. The geothermal area has an Icelandic Yellowstone feel with hiking trails offering various vantage points.
Thingvellir National Park is also a must-visit. Historically significant as the meeting place of Iceland’s clans to decide laws and policies, it features a lake, waterfalls, and a museum with artifacts. Thingvellir is steeped in history and culturally significant to Icelanders, so respectful behavior is important.
Day 5: Surfing Iceland’s Coast
Fresh out of the perfect and endangered wave at Þorlákshöfn
Surfing in Iceland was an unexpected highlight. I learned about Þorlákshöfn, a point break near Thorli Beach, known for Iceland’s best and most consistent wave, which is unfortunately threatened by harbor expansion plans. This right-hander offers Malibu-like rides but with far fewer surfers. Local surfers are fighting to save it.
I connected with Steinarr Lár, a leading surfer in the save-the-wave campaign. He generously lent me gear. Arctic Surfers organizes surf tours (from $350 per day) and provides equipment, and is also involved in wave preservation efforts.
After navigating slippery, seaweed-covered rocks, I experienced incredible waves – three to four feet tall with long rides. The locals were welcoming, the wetsuit kept me warm, and the surfing was fantastic.
This wave is a valuable natural resource, and its potential destruction is concerning. Surf it while you can and support the efforts to save it.
Days 6 & 7: Northern Lights Luxury
The Northern Lights popping off above the Hotel Rangá
After days of adventure, I opted for luxury at Hotel Rangá (pronounced ron-cow, from $340 per night in shoulder season), recommended by my friend Pétur (from a tourism company) as a prime Northern Lights viewing location due to its isolated, dark location with 360-degree views. It also has an observatory and a Northern Lights wake-up call service.
Hotel Rangá was the nicest accommodation of my trip and a perfect base for south coast exploration. Icelandic upscale is more understated than U.S. luxury – Hotel Rangá is very comfortable but more rustic and minimalist in standard rooms (themed master suites are more elaborate).
The hotel restaurant offered the best food I had in Iceland, including lamb, fish, and reindeer carpaccio. They also arrange candlelit cave dinners in a former ancient dwelling. Hotel Rangá is highly recommended, and we saw the aurora on two nights despite no forecast.
Around 11 PM, the Northern Lights wake-up call came. Prepared with layers and camera gear, I rushed out to witness green curtains dancing across the sky. Reflections in the river and pond behind the hotel enhanced the spectacle. Seeing the Northern Lights is an unparalleled experience.
Bonus: Off-Road Iceland Adventures
First light from my back porch at the Hotel Rangá before the day’s adventures
For the final days, I sought out backcountry experiences beyond my friend’s AWD hatchback’s capabilities. I partnered with Southcoast Adventure (also recommended by my friend’s company) for three off-road expeditions and also enjoyed Icelandic horseback riding.
Buggy Tours into the Icelandic Wilderness
#buggylife (Yes, it’s a real thing and I’m officially a believer.)
Buggy tours are an excellent way to access remote areas. These two-seat 4×4 ATVs with roll cages took us to Emstrur on a full-day adventure across dirt roads and streams. We encountered waterfalls, glaciers, and stunning rock formations without seeing any other people for hours. (Full-day tours start around $660, with shorter options available.)
Exploring Katla Ice Caves
The largest of the Katla Ice Caves
Exploring the Katla Ice Caves (from $205 per person) was a highlight. This constantly changing ice cave system in the Myrdalsjokull glacier includes a massive ice arch and tunnels of blue ice with streams and waterfalls.
We even did some ice climbing (crampons provided, sturdy boots needed). On the return, we visited Gljufrabui waterfall, hidden in a slot canyon, and Seljalandsfoss, which you can walk behind for canyon views.
Landmannalaugar Super Jeep Tour
In Iceland, it’s always hotspring season. We took major advantage of that.
Our final day involved a Super Jeep tour (from $300), actually a modified 4WD Mercedes Sprinter van, into Landmannalaugar in the interior highlands. We traversed glacier-carved paths and explored extinct craters. Countless waterfalls were again present, but the highlight was a natural hot spring in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve – a perfect end to the trip.
Icelandic Horseback Riding
Icelandic horses really are that cool.
For relaxation, Skeiðvellir Horse Farm (rides from $85/person) offers Icelandic horseback riding. Icelandic horses, isolated for over 1,000 years, have unique traits, including stout bodies, lush manes, and special gaits. They offer a smooth ride and a unique way to experience Iceland’s grasslands.
Heliskiing in Iceland: March to June
The stuff of powder-explorer dreams…
For extreme adventure, consider heliskiing or snowboarding with Viking Heliskiing from March to June. Based in northern Iceland, they offer packages (from $7,200 per person for three days) including meals, gear, transfers, and luxury lodging at Sigló Hotel.
While I haven’t personally experienced this (yet!), the terrain is reportedly unique, with smooth, steep slopes holding powder well, allowing for long, open carves. Runs can extend all the way to the beach. 15,000 vertical feet per day are guaranteed. Enjoy hotel hot tubs, saunas, and potential Northern Lights viewing. The season runs from mid-March to mid-June, with potential midnight skiing.
Conclusion: Off-Season Iceland is Captivating
Your humble reporter, very wet. Worth it.
Iceland truly exceeded my expectations. I now prefer shoulder-season travel in Iceland. While weather can be challenging and some roads inaccessible, off-season travel saves money and enhances the experience with fewer tourists. So, pack warmly, plan ahead, and be ready to adapt. After all, Þetta reddast…
By Brent Rose, adventure and gear writer for Outside.
