For weary travelers along the vast expanse of I-40 and historic Route 66 in New Mexico, a beacon of respite emerges from the arid landscape: Clines Corners Travel Center. More than just a stop to refuel and stretch your legs, Clines Corners has evolved into a legendary roadside attraction, a sprawling emporium of curiosities, necessities, and unexpected delights. Just ask Frank Felty and Ronald Woodruff, two truckers whose recent breakdown near Clines Corners inadvertently initiated them into the unofficial “broke-down-in-Clines-Corners club.” Little did they know, their misfortune placed them at the doorstep of an iconic destination that has captivated travelers for generations.
Exterior of Clines Corner
Clines Corners Travel Center exterior view showcasing its expansive size and prominent roadside signage.
As Felty aptly summarized over his breakfast, the essence of a great travel stop boils down to “food and coffee. That about does it. Plus the restrooms.” And in these fundamental aspects, Clines Corners Travel Center excels. But to simply categorize it as a mere “good one” would be a vast understatement. Clines Corners transcends the typical highway stop, transforming into a veritable cabinet of curiosities that demands exploration. Beyond the essential services, it unfolds into a captivating realm encompassing a service station, convenience store, restaurant, curio shop, fudge and candy emporium, rock and jewelry haven, post office, and even an RV park. Adding to its unexpected charm is the surprisingly well-stocked selection of Ariat boots and Pendleton purses, alongside the ever-appreciated clean restrooms and a whimsical Zoltar fortune-telling machine. The approach to Clines Corners is heralded by a barrage of billboards, each a bullet point in a roadside poem promising SPOONS, THIMBLES, ICE, CHILE, and KEYCHAINS, among countless other treasures. The thimbles might raise an eyebrow, but the sheer volume of offerings and the insistent roadside call to “STOP ANYWAY!” becomes irresistibly compelling.
Starting in May, Clines Corners Travel Center is set to amplify its allure even further, introducing a full-service truck stop complete with a laundromat, showers, and five acres of overnight parking. The expansion will also feature package liquor sales showcasing the distinctive flavors of New Mexico craft beers and spirits, and La Cocina, a restaurant operating from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., serving up local favorites like enchiladas and refreshing margaritas. And for those with a penchant for pyrotechnics, the promise of “fireworks, fireworks, fireworks” adds another layer of roadside spectacle.
Clines Corners stands as both a pioneer and a relic, a testament to the grand roadside stops that once defined the iconic Route 66. Since 1934, it has catered to virtually every need of the motoring public, weathering countless snowstorms and an endless stream of “broke-down-in-Clines-Corners” tales. Through four ownership transitions, it has solidified its position as a robust landmark, seamlessly blending the everyday with the extraordinary, appealing to bikers and sophisticated travelers alike. Even the simple act of choosing a miniature personalized license plate becomes a dizzying exercise in self-expression. As General Manager Jeff Anderson aptly puts it, “The whole concept here is people stop to use the bathroom, and we get them to spend $20 on rubber snakes and tomahawks. And it works.” He adds, highlighting the almost magical retail formula, “In no marketing book does it say, ‘Get them to stop for the bathroom and they’ll spend $20,’ but they do. And if they’re hungry, they’ll eat.”
Owner George Cook with son Nicholas, who
Current owner George Cook with his son Nicholas, representing the family-run legacy of Clines Corners Travel Center.
The Genesis of a Roadside Legend: Pops Cline’s Vision
The story of Clines Corners Travel Center is inextricably linked to its founder, Roy “Pops” Cline, an “opportunistic entrepreneur” in the words of his grandson, George Everage. Everage, a retired Albuquerque accountant, fondly recounts the tales spun by his parents and grandparents, piecing together the early days of this roadside empire. In the 1910s and 1920s, Pops Cline, his wife, their son, and six daughters migrated from Oklahoma to New Mexico, initially settling near Tierra Amarilla. There, Pops managed a post office and a nickel theater housed in a tent, but the harsh winters pushed the family southward. A chicken farm followed, then a hotel in Buford, which would later become Moriarty, marking the gradual southward migration that would lead to Clines Corners’ location.
The Cline daughters proved to be a valuable workforce, enabling Pops to acquire land at the intersection of old Highway 6 and Highway 2. In that era, “highway” was a generous term, especially for Highway 6, a rudimentary dirt road bulldozed across New Mexico. By 1926, Route 66, a paved alternative, offered a northern loop through Santa Fe, connecting Santa Rosa and Albuquerque. However, maps might have misled drivers to believe Highway 6 was the quicker path, and Pops strategically capitalized on this, establishing not one, but two service stations – a Standard and a Conoco – positioned across from each other to capture traffic from both directions.
Pops Cline’s entrepreneurial agility was evident in his willingness to relocate his makeshift stations whenever the unpredictable bulldozed route shifted. His fortune truly turned when a political decision in Santa Fe resulted in Route 66 being realigned directly through his land. Seizing this golden opportunity, Pops constructed a distinctive white store, proudly bearing the name “Cline’s.” His 15-cent bowls of chili became legendary, drawing patrons from considerable distances. Remarkably, in those early days, Pops generated more revenue from repairing flat tires than from gasoline sales, a testament to the challenging road conditions of the time.
The family endured severe blizzards between 1938 and 1940. Perched at an elevation exceeding 7,000 feet, with minimal protection from the elements, Clines Corners, as it became known on maps (losing the apostrophe), frequently faced the brunt of nature’s fury. Everage recalls images of snowdrifts towering so high they threatened to engulf the outhouse. He notes the soil’s composition, “nothing but caliche that turns into clay,” exacerbating travel woes when the snow melted, leading to vehicles becoming easily stuck.
Fortunes, pottery, tchotchkes, and food attract customers 24 hours a day.
The diverse retail offerings inside Clines Corners Travel Center, from souvenirs to local crafts, attracting customers around the clock.
Eventually, Pops Cline sold the Clines Corners operation to a pair of state policemen and relocated his family to Kingman, Arizona, near the Hoover Dam, where he launched a similar venture. While initially successful, World War II disrupted his plans, diverting resources like gasoline, food, and labor towards the war effort. Undaunted, Pops moved to Vaughn, New Mexico, where he ran the Doxie Hotel, experiencing his most profitable period by selling meals and whiskey to soldiers traveling on troop trains.
In the 1950s, Pops Cline ventured back into the roadside stop business, opening Flying Cline Ranch, a competitor to his original Clines Corners, approximately 19 miles eastward on Route 66. He later renamed it Flying C after legal pressure from the new owners of Clines Corners. George Everage’s father, also named George, married Mae Lucille, one of the Cline daughters, and occasionally assisted at Flying C. During its peak summer season, Flying C employed 48 individuals and served lunch to 22 busloads of tourists daily. Everage recalls the prevalence of roadside stops along Route 66 during that era, estimating “between Clines Corners and Santa Rosa, there were 25 to 30 of these mom-and-pop places.” He paints a vivid picture of these attractions, some featuring questionable animal exhibits, such as “a zoo in the most terrible conditions. One had a bear. Every place had one or two emaciated rattlesnakes.”
Even after selling his original Clines Corners, its influence continued to ripple outwards. One of the state policemen who acquired it later established another Route 66 attraction, the Longhorn Ranch in Moriarty, a faux Western town boasting stagecoach rides, Native American dances, and “a museum with antique firearms and two-headed calves,” according to Everage.
From Roadside Stops to Travel Centers: Evolution and Endurance
The rise of air travel in terms of safety and affordability gradually led to the decline of many roadside stops. While remnants of the Longhorn Ranch sign might still be visible, many similar establishments faded into obscurity. The interstate system and the shift from rail to large trucks for freight transport reshaped the landscape. The surviving roadside businesses adapted, evolving into expansive truck plazas, often acquired by national corporations like Love’s, Flying J, and Travel Centers of America.
Amidst this transformation, Clines Corners Travel Center persevered. It remained locally owned and operated, the sole business for miles in the surrounding ranchlands. Its impressive 40,000 square feet became a welcoming landmark, a source of human connection and practical relief in the vast, sometimes isolating, New Mexican terrain.
Keeping Clines Corners running is more than a family-affair.
A dedicated team keeps Clines Corners Travel Center operational, highlighting the community aspect of this roadside institution.
George Cook: Continuing the Legacy into the 21st Century
Current owner George Cook, also a veteran of the tourist trade, understands the enduring appeal of Clines Corners Travel Center. “There’s some old sayings in the business,” Cook explains. “One of the most important is ‘Buy the merchandise right.’ That means volume buying.” Beyond Clines Corners, Cook’s portfolio includes the Covered Wagon in Albuquerque’s Old Town Plaza, along with the Sundancer Trading Company and Thunderbird Curio shops at the Albuquerque Sunport, businesses he has operated for over three decades. He also manages Taos Trading, Taos Cowboy, and Taos Mercantile, near his family’s original homestead.
Cook’s connection to Clines Corners stretches back to his childhood. “I used to come out here when I was a kid,” he recalls, taking a break in the Clines Corners Subway shop. “My dad had a jewelry display here. I got to know everybody. I saw the opportunity.” Today, his ownership extends to 1,500 acres, including prime frontage along I-40 and US 285, strategically utilized for his signature Burma Shave-style billboard advertising campaign – “Only advertising I need,” he asserts. To support his workforce, Cook provides trailer-park housing for up to 30 families, a crucial benefit for employees working overnight shifts or facing weather-related disruptions.
Stephanie Urioste, assisting General Manager Anderson in the daily operations of Clines Corners Travel Center, has firsthand experience with the challenges of severe weather. “If they shut the interstate, those workers and travelers who are here stay here,” she recounts. “We open the restaurant, there are people everywhere, trucks everywhere. It’s chaotic.” However, amidst the chaos, moments of unexpected community spirit emerge. Urioste recalls a recent monster snowstorm where a stranded stranger took initiative, shoveling out vehicle after vehicle. “Sometimes a random person, you don’t know what they’re going to do,” she marvels.
A selection of Native pottery.
Native pottery and Southwestern crafts available at Clines Corners Travel Center, reflecting the local culture and artistry.
Clines Corners Travel Center draws a significant portion of its clientele from Texas, particularly during the winter months, as travelers head north towards ski destinations in Santa Fe, Taos, and Colorado. In the summer, visitors from across the globe fill its aisles. With such a diverse and constant flow of customers, it’s easy to overlook the quirky details that contribute to Clines Corners’ unique atmosphere, like the colossal buffalo head mounted on a pillar, or the display of bullwhips nearby.
The sheer variety of merchandise at Clines Corners Travel Center caters to every conceivable travel need and impulse. Forgot a dog dish? They’ve got you covered, along with collars, leashes, blue tarps, bungee cords, and even a jack. A $695 amethyst geode sits in proximity to vintage lava lamps and novelty boxer shorts emblazoned with humorous sayings.
Sheila Foot, presiding over the fudge counter, has witnessed decades of sugar cravings satisfied with flavors like the enduringly popular pecan praline. “I have a lot of repeat customers,” she shares. One particularly devoted customer from Arizona makes a bi-annual pilgrimage, pre-ordering two full slabs of lemon meringue pie fudge, a special batch Sheila prepares just for him. The candy selection extends to bulk containers of saltwater taffy, mini Bit-O-Honey bars, Jelly Bellys, Lemonheads, and jawbreakers. T-shirts are the top-selling item, closely followed by horno-shaped incense burners with cedar, piñon, and juniper scents. “Genuine Native Made” Navajo and Zuni jewelry, sourced from a dealer in Gallup, is displayed on beds of dried black beans, offering tourists a taste of Southwestern artistry, satisfying the desire for a shiny souvenir.
“There is no better business than the tourist trade,” Cook declares. “People are out to have fun. They want to learn stuff. You deal with people who are happy.” This positive atmosphere permeates Clines Corners Travel Center, creating an environment where the mundane act of a roadside stop transforms into an enjoyable experience.
More Than Just a Stop: An Existential Roadside Moment
Even amidst skepticism about purchasing a coonskin cap, the allure of Clines Corners Travel Center can unexpectedly take hold. A buttery-soft leather apron catches the eye, sparking thoughts of a perfect birthday gift. The potential for finding quirky stocking stuffers, baby shower gifts, forgotten birthday cards, and even mailing them from the on-site post office becomes readily apparent. The sound of Phil Collins playing on the sound system adds to the surreal roadside ambiance, prompting a moment of introspection – “could this actually be the best place on earth?” – despite the acknowledged inflated gas prices, a necessary reality of selling two million gallons annually.
And then, reality intrudes. Cook’s animated discussion with staff near the candy shop signals an unforeseen disruption. Dust filtering down from the ceiling renovation onto the merchandise prompts an abrupt decision – “Shut it down,” Cook declares, referring not to the construction, but to the gift shop itself.
Like a well-drilled team, employees begin the process of relocating merchandise, transforming the candy area into temporary storage for T-shirts, while a hallway is maintained for restroom and Subway access. The closure, slated for sixty days, casts a pall over the vibrant atmosphere, especially in the gray depths of January. For a business predicated on transience, this “unholy pause in the continuum” feels almost existential. The moment evokes a line from Waiting for Godot, “We always find something, eh Didi, to give us the impression we exist?”
Cline Corners Fudge, made fresh.
Freshly made fudge at Clines Corners Travel Center, a long-standing tradition and customer favorite.
In search of roadside meaning amidst the temporary closure, the fudge counter becomes a beacon, resulting in a purchase of not one, but two boxes of their finest fudge. Finally, Zoltar, the persistent fortune-telling machine, demands attention. After repeated encounters near the restrooms, a dollar bill is投入, and Zoltar springs to life, delivering a culturally insensitive and unintelligible fortune, ultimately failing to dispense even a written prediction.
Fate remaining uncertain, departure becomes inevitable. As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in muted tones, the final billboards of Clines Corners Travel Center bid farewell: CLINES CORNERS / THANK YOU. CLINES CORNERS / COME BACK SOON. CLINES CORNERS / TRAVEL SAFELY. A fitting sendoff from a roadside institution that has become an integral part of the American travel experience.
