Martinique, a French Caribbean gem, often gets whispered about in Travel Talk circles, and after my recent visit, I’m keen to share my experiences, relying on my (slightly aging!) memories to paint a vivid picture. This isn’t just another travel blog; it’s a deep dive into the nuances of Martinique, comparing it with its sister island, Guadeloupe, to help you decide which slice of Caribbean paradise best suits your travel desires.
Discovering Martinique: A French Island Vibe
Martinique immediately struck me as a place where the locals have a genuine appreciation for tourists, especially those from Canada. I heard anecdotes about early Canadian visitor groups, suggesting a long-standing connection and perhaps why Quebecers find a welcoming atmosphere here. Many locals I encountered had either traveled to or even lived in Montreal, creating an unexpected sense of familiarity.
Driving through the southern part of the island was a pleasure. Well-maintained highways cut through fields of sugarcane, punctuated by charming homesteads perched on hills. The inviting shops and restaurants were staffed by friendly and knowledgeable people, eager to share the stories behind their products. Notably, I didn’t encounter the typical mass-produced tourist trinkets often found elsewhere, adding to the island’s authentic feel.
If you appreciate scenic drives through interesting villages and value exceptional food service, Martinique should be high on your list. Dining experiences were truly top-notch. Imagine enjoying a meal without interruption, with ample time to soak in breathtaking sunsets. And for beach lovers, Plage des Salines is simply stunning – a must-visit for a leisurely afternoon.
Delving into the Details: My Martinique Journey
My arrival was a bit delayed due to a Winair hiccup, landing me at the airport late in the evening. A taxi to Ste Anne at that hour set me back 140 euros, a price reflecting the late hour and distance. Taxis here operate with an app, a handy detail to note.
Ste Anne itself is a delightful village, perfect for a day of exploration. It offers a moderately priced grocery store (I even spotted Canadian bread – a curious find!), several inviting restaurants, and lively nighttime bars with live music near the pier. Getting to Plage des Salines is easy via a local bus from the bus station, costing just 2.10 euros for a roughly 10-minute ride. The last bus back is at 4:30 pm, so plan accordingly.
Plage des Salines is more than just a beach; it’s an experience. An unpaved road leads to a collection of laid-back beach bars, providing shade and a relaxed ambiance, far from the thumping beats of typical tourist traps. A short walk through this shaded area opens up to nearly 2km of pristine white sand and calm, inviting waters. You’ll find a couple of larger beach bars closer to the water and a restaurant further down the beach.
Adding to the beach’s charm are local vendors with a flair for fashion, selling colorful pareos, dresses, and tops. Their approach is refreshingly non-intrusive, making browsing a pleasant experience. They seemed to be doing good business, approached by many beachgoers throughout the day.
An unexpected Airbnb issue led me to Trois Islets (a 100 euro taxi ride), which turned out to be another fantastic area to discover. Creole Village is a well-designed plaza filled with unique boutiques – from perfumes and handcrafted Brazilian bags and jewelry to a linen store (familiar to those who’ve been to St. Martin). A laundromat is conveniently located nearby. The beaches in Trois Islets are calm and refreshing, though perhaps not as dramatically beautiful as Plage des Salines. Restaurants abound along the beach, stretching from Le Marin towards Creole Village.
From Trois Islets, ferries depart to Fort-de-France (FDF) in about 20 minutes – when they are running on schedule. During my visit, the ticket machines were out of order, resulting in a free ride! I learned a new company had taken over the ferry service. Choosing the marina ferry, supposedly more reliable, still resulted in a 1.5-hour delay.
Grocery options in Trois Islets are limited and expensive. A small convenience store near the casino is available, but be aware you need ID to enter the casino.
Fort-de-France boasts a large indoor market, offering a similar selection to markets in Grand Case, Marigot, and Philipsburg – spices, rum, vegetables, and some unique trinkets. Upstairs, you’ll find a handful of affordable restaurants serving delicious local food. I enjoyed a satisfying meal of fish, sides, beer, and dessert for around 23 euros.
For a touch of culture, I visited a small museum (4 euros entry), well worth an hour for a glimpse into the island’s history and early inhabitants. Don’t miss the historical library, home to preserved ancient texts and often hosting small art exhibitions.
Getting to the airport from Trois Islets by taxi cost 50 euros. Considering transportation costs, renting a car seems advisable. However, the ferry to FDF followed by a taxi could be a more economical, and potentially just as quick (when the ferry is on time!), alternative.
On my final night in Trois Islets, distant sounds of celebration piqued my curiosity. I soon discovered the source as a marching band paraded from Creole Village to Le Marin. Comprising 40-50 members of all ages – dancers, conch players, trombones, trumpets, and drummers – they were practicing for Carnival, with events scheduled in Fort-de-France for the first weekend of January. For those seeking vibrant cultural experiences, Fort-de-France during Carnival is the place to be!
A quick note about the airport: it’s modern and efficient, though surprisingly limited in airside shopping. Beyond duty-free, there’s a shop with hand-painted ceramics and a “Love” store. Food options are also scarce, with only one takeaway spot.
Martinique vs. Guadeloupe: The Eternal Travel Talk Debate
The question often arises in travel talk: Martinique or Guadeloupe? Having experienced both, I can offer some comparative insights. Both are captivating French islands, but with distinct personalities.
Guadeloupe (Gwada):
- Larger Scale: Guadeloupe is noticeably larger than Martinique.
- Shopping Hub: Home to what’s claimed to be France’s second-largest shopping mall, offering a wide array of French fashion and a large grocery store.
- Deshaies Charm: Deshaies is a small, picturesque village, though beaches are less prominent here. Car rentals can be challenging to secure, especially during peak season (like early December when I visited). Booking from the airport, even at a slightly higher price, is recommended to avoid disappointment.
- Rainforest Majesty: The tropical rainforest in Guadeloupe boasts incredibly lush vegetation, with leaves of truly impressive size.
- French Fluency Essential: French is even more of an asset in Guadeloupe.
- Potentially Higher Crime: Local discussions suggested a possibly higher crime rate compared to Martinique (though this is unconfirmed).
- “Tout de Suite” Culture: I frequently heard “tout de suite” (right now), perhaps reflecting a slightly more fast-paced island vibe in certain areas.
Martinique:
- Similarities to Guadeloupe: Shares many similarities with Guadeloupe in terms of culture and landscape.
- Fort-de-France Day Vibes: I personally preferred the daytime atmosphere of Fort-de-France over Basse-Terre in Guadeloupe.
- Ste Anne Tranquility: Ste Anne is ideal for quiet and quaint getaways.
- Trois Islets Evening Scene: Trois Islets comes alive in the evenings, though perhaps not with the late-night intensity of Simpson Bay (St. Maarten).
- Superior Food and Service: Food and service were consistently top-notch in Martinique.
- French Advantage: French is highly beneficial in Martinique as well.
- Southern Bus Limitations: Don’t rely heavily on buses in the southern part of Martinique.
- Modern FDF Buses: Fort-de-France has modern city buses and a pleasant park/beach area near Fort Saint-Louis.
- Self-Serve Alcohol in Restaurants: Note the self-service alcohol section in some Martinique restaurants, while food tables are full-service. Observing this protocol is key for proper service.
Reflecting on Martinique: A Return is in Order
My Martinique adventure left me with a few regrets – missing St. Pierre, Savane des Esclaves, Mount Pelée, and a rum distillery. These omissions simply solidify my intention to return.
I hope this travel talk has been helpful in planning your own journey to Martinique. Both Martinique and Guadeloupe offer unique Caribbean experiences, and choosing between them often comes down to personal preferences and travel style. Whether you prioritize bustling markets and rainforests or serene beaches and culinary delights, these French Caribbean islands promise unforgettable adventures.
Thanks again to ttolers for the initial suggestions that sparked this Martinique exploration many months ago – your input was greatly appreciated!
